Hello SCR readers - if there are any left after the recent barrage of baby pictures. Over here in Europe, at least in Switzerland, the kids get a week off for Easter. Actually, make that 7 working days. And since I'm off until end of August, it was a great opportunity to get another trip under our belts (and Aaron had lots of overtime hours to use up). We couldn't quite settle on where to go, throwing around the UK and the black forest in Germany, until friends of ours - colleagues and neighbours Julie and Darren Smith and their kids, Nadia and Cedric, invited us to join them in the Cote D'Azur for a week. Why not?
Julie, ever so organized found us a gorgeous place with a pool and an outdoor hot tub in Tourrettes sur Loup, which is just north of Cannnes. Sold.
We planned to caravan on Saturday. The first challenge - and anyone who knows me will understand - was to get everthing I decided we'd need for the week into the car. 4 suitcases, 1 stroller (the big kind), 1 potty, 3 big bags of groceries, 1 bag of books and games, 1 lunch box, 1 diaper bag/purse, 1 dvd player, 2 car seats (with kids in them), 60 diapers, 1 bbq wok, 1 laptop and a bunch of other random items. We did it AND we could still see out the back window (I find it always feels so cozy when packed in like that - reminds me of trips to the cottage as a kid). Aaron is becoming a pro at 'car tetris'. We were off! Julie and family, however, were delayed thanks to a nasty bug that Darren had picked up, which took the stress off being ready for an 8 a.m. departure (9:30 isn't bad....).
Google maps told us it was about a 5.5 hour drive, but if we took a slightly longer route, we could hit a crocodile farm about midway - a great place to stop and stretch our legs and have lunch. We had been talking the Crocodile Farm up all week, and Sam was stoked. Thing went great for about the first 15 minutes, until we took a wrong exit. Of course, neither one of us had really studied the map and assumed we wanted to go in the direction of Lyon. Wrong. a big detour later (there should be rules about more frequent exits on highways) and we were back on track, having lost only a half hour. In the first hour. But whatever!
The rest of the ride went smoothly. Frequent pee breaks for Sam (he was a superstar) and Rhys was crashed out. We passed many, many cars like ours - packed tho the gills with kids in the back. Everyone was going somewhere for Easter week. And I think everyone was getting onto the A7 at Valence. Traffic ground to a halt. Turns out it was likely due to the toll but we had no idea so we snuck off the highway in favour of the national road. Not a terrible mistake, but not a time saver either. Our moods were buoyed, however, by the fact that we were near where we had stayed when we took Sam to France in 2008 when he was 8 months old (GREAT trip). We passed a lot of familiar landmarks, including an 11th century castle way up on a hill where Sam had been terrorized by a chevalier. We vowed to bring Rhys there before we go home in 2014.
Sam, 9 months, not loving the chevalier. Marnas 2009
By this time it was nearly 1 p.m. and all we really wanted to to was get to the house - we were supposed to be there by 4 p.m. We suggested to Sam that he didn't reeeeeaaaalllly need to see stinky crocodiles but he gave us a look like we were crazy so we stopped. Rhys woke up and started to squeal just as we pulled into the parking lot. Rhys was fed, we all checked out the crocodiles (there were LOTS) and the turtles, had a bite to eat, and then got back on the road.
Sam, loving the turtles and crocodiles
Ouch, my foot!
While we didn't take any detours on the second leg of the journey, we did have to make frequent stops to sooth Rhys who had decided that he had had enough of his car seat. Fair enough. Sam very stoically put up with the screaming. The final hour on the highway was like a bit surreal - signs for Marseilles, Aix-en-Provence, St. Tropez, Cannes, Monte Carlo. I almost expected to see Paris Hilton. Finally we turned off the highway towards Grasse. 20 minutes to destination the GPS said. 20 minutes later the GPS STILL said 20 minutes to destination because we were at this point travelling on teeny tiny one lane roads snaking up the foothills of the Maritime Alps. In the fog. But when we finally arrived it was worth it. The house was gorgeous and we were warmly welcomed and shown around by Yan, the caretaker. We settled in, Julie and Darren arrived a few hours later and kids were put to bed. Next order of business - testing out the hot tub.
Hot tub with light show
Morning came and the kids were thrilled. Sam's first EB visit was a hit. Eggs were found and then we all sat down at the beautifully decorated table for a light brekkie.
Reading the note from the EB explaining the rules
Julie's beautiful Easter breakfast table
Something for everyone - except Rhys. Sorry Rhys.
"I FOUND ONE!!!"
Cedric and Sam comparing loot
Happy family
Rhys in the sweater and hat Mom knit for Sam
It was then time for a quick dip in the hot tub for the kids. Pool was waaaaaay too cold and it wasn't that hot up in the hills anyway.
Sam, lounging
The morning dip (this became a daily event)
Rhys and his crush, Nadia
We couldn't linger long because Julie had made Easter Sunday lunch reservations for us at a nearby restaurant. The GPS said 30 minutes with an additional 20 for the roads (we quickly learned to factor this extra time into all trips). It was well worth the trip.
*Kir et mises en bouche
* Noix de Saint Jacques rôties, salade d’asperges vertes,
émulsion de jus de crustacés parfumé à la truffe
* Selle d’agneau farcie en persillade, pomme de terre mousseline
au thym, écrasé de courgettes en crumble de parmesan
*Chèvre frais, mesclun du Saleya aux condiments riviera,
crème de balsamique
*Douceur de pâques
The menu was spectacular - my favourite being the 'tomates d'amour' mise en bouche. None of us were quite sure what to make of the 'selle d'agneau' (lambs butt seemed to be a popular menu item at most restaurants in the area...some going so far as to call it 'cul d'agneau'). The kids were very good and tried everything. When they started to tire of the gastronomic experience, toys, coloring books and other treats were pulled out to buy us some more time.
Julie getting some snuggle time
Cedric and Darren
Amazing mises en bouche
Not only was the food delicious, but the restaurant had a great garden with a swing set and other toys for the kids, and a 'chasse aux oeufs' was organized. Everyone was thrilled. Well done, Julie!
Julie after brunch
On the way to brunch we drove through a neighbouring town, Bar sur Loup, - a very cute medieval village perchee (surprise) - that was all decked out for their annual Fete de l'Orangers marking the end of the orange blossom season. The oranges cultivated here are bitter oranges - not meant for eating (as we were continually reminded) but rather used to create scent and liqueurs. This area has supplied the world with most of its orange blossom scent for centuries. In fact, we were staying in the perfume heartland and depending on the time of year, different flowers are picked and turned into essence to be sold to be turned into perfume. Fragonard is only one of the big names in nearby Grasse.
We decided to spend Easter Monday checking out the Orange festival, as there wouldn't likely be much else open. It was very small, but very cute. There were performers, vendors, and lots of local food. Orange garlands were everywhere. Made for a fun morning for all. Sam even got in some street dancing (see video below) - although I think he found the crowd's exuberance lacking.
Grabbing a snack at the Orange Festival
Troubadours
Quaint town of Bar-sur-Loup
Oranges!
Shots anyone?
Every self respecting festival needs a fire breather
That afternoon, Aaron, Sam, Rhys and I decided to check out some other local towns, with no real destination in mind. We ended up driving all the way to St Paul de Vence, a very cool - yes - medieval village that became a celebrity and artist hangout in the 20's and has remained of interest to tourists and artists ever since (Bonnard, Modigliani, Sartre, F Scott Fitzgerald, Catherine Deneuve, Sophia Loren, Greta Garbo, Simone Signoret, Yves Montand and most recently, the Brange). Despite this, it is crowded but otherwise unspoiled with the added attraction of being chalk full of public pieces of art. Definitely cool.
Sam was most interested in the ice cream...
...the water fountains...
...running through the narrow streets...
...climbing on things...
...and eating snacks.
With kids in tow, we didn't get to do as much browsing as I would have liked (you know me) but we did manage to get into enough art shops to come away with two pieces of art - one original. Last time we agreed on a piece of art it was 2006.
Second half of our trip to the South of France after this short video
