Tuesday, May 3, 2011

Easter Break on the Cote D'Azur - Tuesday to Saturday

Part 2. Will try to keep it shorter than part 1 although photos were uploaded weeks ago so those are staying. Perhaps the more interesting part of the blog anyway :)

The weather forecast for the week was showing Tuesday as the best bet for beach weather, so we all decided to head to Cannes. I really wanted to go - to see what it was all about so why not combine it with the beach day as I'm not sure there is much else to do in Cannes with kids in tow. We packed a picnic and the scooters and headed South. No surprise, it took us much longer to get there than anticipated, not because of the twisty roads (we had factored that in) but because of the terrible traffic the closer you get to the Med...even at 10 a.m.!

We finally parked the cars, then parked ourselves at one of the private beaches - with a baby and young kids in tow we figured it was best to have umbrellas - and having someone bringing us refreshments was also appealing. I forgot to bring sunscreen and asked the staff where the nearest pharmacy was. They very kindly offered me some sunscreen for free - great - until they handed it over...15 spf? Missing about 35 spf there. Julie came to the rescue.

"Umm... you're standing in my sun. Move along? Super."

Glam? Oh, we got glam.

As expected, Rhys wasn't too keen to simply lounge on the beach chairs for long, and so he and I headed up to the boardwalk for a long walk with the hopes that he would fall asleep. Was also an opportunity to check out the sights. I must say, Cannes would be kind of cheap looking if it weren't for all the designer shops and massive yachts.

"Wake me when we get to Tom Ford."

Sophia Loren works on the tan.

Last week?! Noooooooooooooooooooooo..............!!!!!

Aaron and I joked about the fact that Rhys's first beach was Cannes, the Cote d'Azur, the French Riviera. We decided to dip his toes into the Mediterranean, despite the fairly frigid temperatures. He did not like it.

Rhys, Highly Skeptical About This Plan

"I Say, Unhand Me Sir!"

Darren, Definitely Not Noticing Our Topless Neighbour at 12 o'Clock

Sam, Cedric and Nadia had a great day running in and out of the water, building sandcastles and generally doing beachy things. I encouraged Sam to jump over the waves and of course he wiped out, then couldn't get up. Instinctively I grabbed him - camera in hand. Lucky for us Julie had an extra camera with her (is this woman EVER unprepared?) and so she gave it to us as a loaner for the rest of the week.

"Hey Mom, You Might Want to Lose That Camera We're Going in the Water!"

In Cannes, the Sandcastles are Actual Castles

Rhys Recovered from the Swim

Around 3 p.m. the clouds started rolling in, so we packed up and headed to the boardwalk in search of some pizza.

Chillin' with Cedric and Julie

Bye Bye Beach

En route, we stopped so the kids could drive some remote control boats in a fountain. We found a place serving dinner at the apparently very uncivilized hour of 5 p.m., hit up an ice cream parlour, then headed home. Great day. Don't need to go back to Cannes. Unless of course I become a movie star and need to hit the red carpet come festival time.

Daddy... err... SAM Drives the Boat

No photos from Wednesday. That's because I spent the day at home in the hopes of getting Sam and Rhys to nap (they were both badly in need at this point). Also, Aaron and Darren had gone for the day to a vinoteque to get some wine. I wasn't overly impressed with this plan until I tasted the wine. I am now very thankful. And the kids napped - so it was a day well spent. Besides, Aaron and I had reservations at a local Michelin star restaurant that night. Got the kids in bed, got dressed up, and drove through the rain to...a closed restaurant. After double checking, we realized our reservations were for Thursday, but Darren and Julie were going to go out that night. We tried to force them to take our reservations, but they insisted we keep it and that they would go out on Friday instead. Once again, saved by the Smiths.

Thursday we all decided to head to Antibes to do the walk around the cape. After once again braving the traffic, we made it to the cape and headed out - along with many, many other people. It meant that you couldn't really linger along the trail, which was narrow and bordered by a cliff. I kept imagining Sam tripping and falling under one of the wires. So there was much hand holding.

Departure: Still Smiling

Family Outing to Antibes

Tourists: Nothing They Can't Deface

Antibes Coast Walk: Safe

But it was a beautiful walk and we really enjoyed ourselves. We stopped half way to picnic, throw rocks in the Med, and let Rhys out of the carrier.

Midway Point: Still...Not Crying

Look What the Tide Washed In...

Antibes Wildflowers

Three hours later we were back at our starting point, la plage de la Garoupe. We scored some great couches on the beach, the sun broke through the clouds, and we spent another hour just lounging, watching the kids play in the water, and enjoying refreshments. This was perhaps the moment when I felt most like I was on the French Riviera...lazing about surrounded by very rich people. Cap d'Antibes has my vote over Cannes for sure. It was all the same to Rhys, who still didn't want to dip his toes in the water.

The End: Hey, Still Smiling!

Well, Mostly...

Enjoying a Well-Deserved Break

Mmmmm...mmmm...milkshake!

High UV Count = Three Hats

Post-hike Wading

Skipping Stones

Happy Family, End of a Great Day

That night Aaron and I got all dolled up, again, and went for dinner at Les Bacchanales in Vence. We went whole hog and had the 8 course taster menu, with wine pairing to boot. But as we had to drive and Rhys is still nursing, we stuck to 2 glasses of wine. The menu was very interesting - some weird, lots of local flowers involved. The chef himself came out to greet us and to serve some of his dishes which was a nice touch. And all that for a very affordable 80 Euros each (not including the wine). My favourite was the asparagus, Aaron liked the St Jacques. We ate for 2 hours.

au menu, cette semaine :

  • ouget de roches et artichaut épineux,,
    bouillon de poivron grillé

    Asperges violettes et morilles de Provence
    à la pistache

  • Saint-Pierre de Méditerranée
    navet blanc, sureau et fenouil de mer

    Boeuf du Piémont à l'ortie,
    févettes étuvées

  • Fromage de chèvre du Pics des Courmettes enfumé
    confiture de noisette et huile d'olive figée

  • Fraises du Pays et fleurs d'accacia
    crème glacée à la brioche

    Composition de rhubarbe, romarin
    et chocolat blanc

Last day in Provence, Julie and I left the kids with the husbands (minus Rhys, who comes with me pretty much everywhere) and headed to St Paul de Vence. I was more than happy to go back because there were lots of shops I didn't go in, and I also wanted to get to the Maeght Foundation, a local gallery specializing in contemporary and modern art. We were denied access to the famous Colombe d'Or, where we hoped to get a coffee and see the art (it was a polite 'are you guests of the hotel?') - which according to my guidebook is "one of the finest 20th century art collections, built up over the years in lieu of payment of bills (Miro, Picasso, Braque)." Regardless, the day was a success with much shopping, and we got to see plenty of Miro at the art gallery. We got home to find that the Dads had taken the kids to a candy factory where the candies are made from flowers. Sounds, mmm, interesting but really you'd never know if you didn't know. In fact, I'm working through a lollypop right now! Delicious (I got Sam's permission first. He said I could have a greed one).

Boules, anyone?

Miro with Bugaboo


Saturday was travel day. We decided to caravan back via Italy, not only to see something new but also to hit up some Italian wineries on our way back. I'm not a huge Italian wine fan but I'm sure by the end of our posting all that will change (who knew I would love Provencal rose?). The drive along the coast was gorgeous, although became markedly industrial the moment we crossed into Italy. I was a little sad driving past Monte Carlo without stopping. We'll just have to come back! Darren and Aaron picked out our destination, Barbaresco, and we got there without much fuss. When we arrived, a wedding was just wrapping up at the vinoteque so we grabbed some lunch in the cute little hilltop town. A very civilized way to travel indeed.

Sam, Dancing in the Streets

LUNCH!!

Longest. Breadsticks. Ever.

A Wine Store in an Old Church, Nice, Hence the Wedding

Mission accomplished, we were back in the car for the final four hours of the drive. It was a very beautiful through the Savoy valley in France - absolutely gorgeous (another destination for future trips). Unfortunately, it appears as though Rhys's maximum is about 5 hours in the car, so there was some crying and quite a few stops near the end. Luckily Sam came prepared to weather the storm in the backseat.

Keeping his cool while Rhys melts down

All in all, it was an absolutely fabulous vacation for all and our family will be very sad when the Smiths go home to Canada this summer.

Easter Break in the Cote D'Azur: Saturday to Monday


Hello SCR readers - if there are any left after the recent barrage of baby pictures. Over here in Europe, at least in Switzerland, the kids get a week off for Easter. Actually, make that 7 working days. And since I'm off until end of August, it was a great opportunity to get another trip under our belts (and Aaron had lots of overtime hours to use up). We couldn't quite settle on where to go, throwing around the UK and the black forest in Germany, until friends of ours - colleagues and neighbours Julie and Darren Smith and their kids, Nadia and Cedric, invited us to join them in the Cote D'Azur for a week. Why not?

Julie, ever so organized found us a gorgeous place with a pool and an outdoor hot tub in Tourrettes sur Loup, which is just north of Cannnes. Sold.

We planned to caravan on Saturday. The first challenge - and anyone who knows me will understand - was to get everthing I decided we'd need for the week into the car. 4 suitcases, 1 stroller (the big kind), 1 potty, 3 big bags of groceries, 1 bag of books and games, 1 lunch box, 1 diaper bag/purse, 1 dvd player, 2 car seats (with kids in them), 60 diapers, 1 bbq wok, 1 laptop and a bunch of other random items. We did it AND we could still see out the back window (I find it always feels so cozy when packed in like that - reminds me of trips to the cottage as a kid). Aaron is becoming a pro at 'car tetris'. We were off! Julie and family, however, were delayed thanks to a nasty bug that Darren had picked up, which took the stress off being ready for an 8 a.m. departure (9:30 isn't bad....).

Google maps told us it was about a 5.5 hour drive, but if we took a slightly longer route, we could hit a crocodile farm about midway - a great place to stop and stretch our legs and have lunch. We had been talking the Crocodile Farm up all week, and Sam was stoked. Thing went great for about the first 15 minutes, until we took a wrong exit. Of course, neither one of us had really studied the map and assumed we wanted to go in the direction of Lyon. Wrong. a big detour later (there should be rules about more frequent exits on highways) and we were back on track, having lost only a half hour. In the first hour. But whatever!

The rest of the ride went smoothly. Frequent pee breaks for Sam (he was a superstar) and Rhys was crashed out. We passed many, many cars like ours - packed tho the gills with kids in the back. Everyone was going somewhere for Easter week. And I think everyone was getting onto the A7 at Valence. Traffic ground to a halt. Turns out it was likely due to the toll but we had no idea so we snuck off the highway in favour of the national road. Not a terrible mistake, but not a time saver either. Our moods were buoyed, however, by the fact that we were near where we had stayed when we took Sam to France in 2008 when he was 8 months old (GREAT trip). We passed a lot of familiar landmarks, including an 11th century castle way up on a hill where Sam had been terrorized by a chevalier. We vowed to bring Rhys there before we go home in 2014.

Sam, 9 months, not loving the chevalier. Marnas 2009

By this time it was nearly 1 p.m. and all we really wanted to to was get to the house - we were supposed to be there by 4 p.m. We suggested to Sam that he didn't reeeeeaaaalllly need to see stinky crocodiles but he gave us a look like we were crazy so we stopped. Rhys woke up and started to squeal just as we pulled into the parking lot. Rhys was fed, we all checked out the crocodiles (there were LOTS) and the turtles, had a bite to eat, and then got back on the road.

Sam, loving the turtles and crocodiles

Ouch, my foot!

While we didn't take any detours on the second leg of the journey, we did have to make frequent stops to sooth Rhys who had decided that he had had enough of his car seat. Fair enough. Sam very stoically put up with the screaming. The final hour on the highway was like a bit surreal - signs for Marseilles, Aix-en-Provence, St. Tropez, Cannes, Monte Carlo. I almost expected to see Paris Hilton. Finally we turned off the highway towards Grasse. 20 minutes to destination the GPS said. 20 minutes later the GPS STILL said 20 minutes to destination because we were at this point travelling on teeny tiny one lane roads snaking up the foothills of the Maritime Alps. In the fog. But when we finally arrived it was worth it. The house was gorgeous and we were warmly welcomed and shown around by Yan, the caretaker. We settled in, Julie and Darren arrived a few hours later and kids were put to bed. Next order of business - testing out the hot tub.

Hot tub with light show

After hot tub, and before crashing after a long day, we got ready for the Easter Bunny's (EB) visit. The EB, ever so conscious of the kids' age range and level of experience decided to hide eggs by color so that each kid would get the same amount. Very wise. He/she also left some chocolate for the parents. How thoughtful!

Morning came and the kids were thrilled. Sam's first EB visit was a hit. Eggs were found and then we all sat down at the beautifully decorated table for a light brekkie.

Reading the note from the EB explaining the rules


Julie's beautiful Easter breakfast table

Something for everyone - except Rhys. Sorry Rhys.

"I FOUND ONE!!!"

Cedric and Sam comparing loot

Happy family

Rhys in the sweater and hat Mom knit for Sam

It was then time for a quick dip in the hot tub for the kids. Pool was waaaaaay too cold and it wasn't that hot up in the hills anyway.

Sam, lounging

The morning dip (this became a daily event)

Rhys and his crush, Nadia

We couldn't linger long because Julie had made Easter Sunday lunch reservations for us at a nearby restaurant. The GPS said 30 minutes with an additional 20 for the roads (we quickly learned to factor this extra time into all trips). It was well worth the trip.

*Kir et mises en bouche

* Noix de Saint Jacques rôties, salade d’asperges vertes,

émulsion de jus de crustacés parfumé à la truffe

* Selle d’agneau farcie en persillade, pomme de terre mousseline

au thym, écrasé de courgettes en crumble de parmesan

*Chèvre frais, mesclun du Saleya aux condiments riviera,

crème de balsamique

*Douceur de pâques



The menu was spectacular - my favourite being the 'tomates d'amour' mise en bouche. None of us were quite sure what to make of the 'selle d'agneau' (lambs butt seemed to be a popular menu item at most restaurants in the area...some going so far as to call it 'cul d'agneau'). The kids were very good and tried everything. When they started to tire of the gastronomic experience, toys, coloring books and other treats were pulled out to buy us some more time.

Julie getting some snuggle time

Cedric and Darren

Amazing mises en bouche

Not only was the food delicious, but the restaurant had a great garden with a swing set and other toys for the kids, and a 'chasse aux oeufs' was organized. Everyone was thrilled. Well done, Julie!

Julie after brunch

On the way to brunch we drove through a neighbouring town, Bar sur Loup, - a very cute medieval village perchee (surprise) - that was all decked out for their annual Fete de l'Orangers marking the end of the orange blossom season. The oranges cultivated here are bitter oranges - not meant for eating (as we were continually reminded) but rather used to create scent and liqueurs. This area has supplied the world with most of its orange blossom scent for centuries. In fact, we were staying in the perfume heartland and depending on the time of year, different flowers are picked and turned into essence to be sold to be turned into perfume. Fragonard is only one of the big names in nearby Grasse.

We decided to spend Easter Monday checking out the Orange festival, as there wouldn't likely be much else open. It was very small, but very cute. There were performers, vendors, and lots of local food. Orange garlands were everywhere. Made for a fun morning for all. Sam even got in some street dancing (see video below) - although I think he found the crowd's exuberance lacking.

Grabbing a snack at the Orange Festival

Troubadours

Quaint town of Bar-sur-Loup

Oranges!

Shots anyone?

Every self respecting festival needs a fire breather

That afternoon, Aaron, Sam, Rhys and I decided to check out some other local towns, with no real destination in mind. We ended up driving all the way to St Paul de Vence, a very cool - yes - medieval village that became a celebrity and artist hangout in the 20's and has remained of interest to tourists and artists ever since (Bonnard, Modigliani, Sartre, F Scott Fitzgerald, Catherine Deneuve, Sophia Loren, Greta Garbo, Simone Signoret, Yves Montand and most recently, the Brange). Despite this, it is crowded but otherwise unspoiled with the added attraction of being chalk full of public pieces of art. Definitely cool.


Sam was most interested in the ice cream...

...the water fountains...

...running through the narrow streets...

...climbing on things...

...and eating snacks.

With kids in tow, we didn't get to do as much browsing as I would have liked (you know me) but we did manage to get into enough art shops to come away with two pieces of art - one original. Last time we agreed on a piece of art it was 2006.

Second half of our trip to the South of France after this short video