While mom and Ted were in town
visiting, I was hoping that we'd get to go somewhere cool - maternity leave in Europe shouldn't be wasted and I'd have the help with the boys. So, after throwing around a few ideas, Mom and I decided we'd all go to Florence for a few days. We found a great
apartment (on sale) that was walking distance to everything and upped the km per week on our rental to be able to drive there and back. We then headed to the English library in Geneva to get some books: travel guides and Medici history (still working my way through that). I suggested to Mom that she also read
Brunelleschi's Dome, about the building of the Duomo (Thanks Don for the tip). Both she and Ted loved it.
So, two days after Ted's arrival, we (sans Aaron, unfortunately, who had to work) packed the kids, bags, food, diapers, strollers and entertainment into the rental van, and hit the road, direction Florence. I had told Mom it was about a 5 hour drive. Turns out it is more like a 6 hour drive, plus a stop along the way which, with kids, invariably takes an hour. I kinda learned this the night before when I google-mapped (is that a verb?) the route, but thought I'd keep it to myself.
At the Swiss border, about 15 min from home - still happy
Kids not looking as excited, but not crying either
Mamie, when she still thought it would only be 5 hours to our destination
The first milestone was the
Mont Blanc tunnel - over 11 km through Europe's tallest mountain. Mom's tunnel nervousness was not helped by the tale of the 1999 fire, despite the precautions that are now in place. Ok, I just read about the fire...hmm...not sure I'll be able to go through again without some anxiety, especially with the kids.
Inside the Mont Blanc tunnel
Anyway, we made it out of the tunnel in one piece and were rewarded with a fabulous view of the Italian alps.
Tunnel exit: Italian Alps near Aoste
The remainder of the drive went smoothly. The boys are EXCELLENT travellers. We knew this about Sam, but this was Rhys' first long drive. Apart from a few whimpers here and there, he was the perfect travelling companion, fussing only when he needed to eat (one required a random stop in an emergency lane 15 minutes from Florence but we were glad we did...). We stopped halfway there at a roadside station. No McD's, Wendy's or Tim's here...even the food at these rest stops is delicious (relatively)..panini sandwiches with prosciutto, mozzarella, basil, fresh tomatoes. yum. Coffee to go, scarce in Europe, would have been nice, though.
The boys asleep, holding hands
The second half of the drive seemed long. We went via Milan (I could almost sense the designer handbags as we drove past) and it wasn't a very beautiful route. Somewhere around Milan Mom also asked the question "um...is this really only 5 hours?". We also discovered at this point that Sam's portable DVD player wasn't charget. Great. Finally, we neared Florence and turned on the GPS. It was 5 pm. We missed the first exit but the GPS quickly recalculated. This was going to be a breeze!
There is a reason almost everyone you talk to will tell you not to drive to Old Florence (advice I ignored..how hard can it be?). Not only are non-resident vehicles not permitted in the Old town until after 7:30 (if you park at a certain garage for 30 Euros a day they will supposedly cancel your ticket...we'll let you know how that goes), but the roads are incredibly narrow (oh, THAT was where I was supposed to turn?), often one way or under construction or otherwise blocked off. After an HOUR of driving around and around (with ever increasing tension within the car - make that an 8 hour drive to Florence) and after several phone calls to the apartment owner (we were not going to make the 6 pm meeting time) we FINALLY found the place - not before literally driving right past the Duomo (pretty sure that's not allowed) in our rental van with the big "PATRICK LOCATION 022 777 77 77" sign/advertisement splashed on the rear window. People were no doubt staring at these idiot foreigners but I'm not sure as I coped with the stress by not making eye contact with anyone.
We hauled all our stuff up to the apartment (had a lift....that fit one person and one bag at a time), got a brief tour of the place and paid the owners, dealt with a massive diaper mess in the middle of it all (decided it was really time for Sam - see next post) and then we all plopped on the couch. It was also then that Rhys decided he'd had enough of being a perfect baby, and would start crying. A Lot. We were also too exhausted to venture far for food so our first meal was a mediocre at best shawarma. But hey, we were in Florence!
Next day (Wednesday) we struck out bright and early with no pans other than to see what we could see. In preparation for the trip, we had shown Sam pictures of the Ponte Vecchio, the statue of David and the Duomo. We had also used Michelangelo's David in our boy / girl lesson (he calls everyone boy) - emphasis on the anatomy here. Anyway, first up was the Duomo as we were staying 2 blocks away. Hard one to spot from so close so we had to point it out to him. Up next was the
Piazza della Signoria, where there were some crowds but we still had great access to the statues. Wow. Who knew that the David (a copy) was so big? Sam saw this one on his own: "LOOK! the PENIS with the DAVID!!" He was very proud that he had spotted it.
Piazza della Signoria: Cosimo I
Michelangelo's David with dirty camera lens
Piazza della Signoria is a pretty cool place - the scene of most of Florence's political events during the Renaissance (according to my Medici history book) and is full of amazing Renaissance (Michelangelo, Donatello, Cellini etc.) and ancient Roman sculpture (much of which collected by the Medici). It is also a great place for 2.5 year olds to run around and let off some steam. Rhys was happy riding in the Baby Bjorn.
Sam dwarfed by Roman sculpture
Palazzo Vecchio
Then it was on to the next landmark, the
Ponte Vecchio, but not before stopping at many boutiques along the way. There is some really good shopping in Florence. My favorite was Gerard Outlet on Via Lambertesca. While waiting for Mom outside of a leather goods store (one of many, many stores) Sam was spotted by some Asian ladies (clearly tourists - wearing gloves, hats and scarves on a warm day) who appeared to admire his full lips (that was my reading of the sign language, anyway) and wanted a picture. Sam, curiously, was not game at all and refused to smile. In fact, he scowled. The ladies were undeterred - they hung around a long time hoping for Sam to cooperate. They even left and came back before finally giving up. I think they were also hoping I'd take Rhys out of the carrier for a photo. Too funny.
We were also stopped by a lot of little old Italian ladies over the three days. Old ladies everywhere love babies.
We arrived at the Ponte Vecchio on foot - looked like any other street, really, so Sam wasn't that impressed. Mom managed to find the one silver store amongst all the gold and bought a gorgeous bracelet (she may be a more determined shopper than me...can you imagine?). Kids were starting to melt down so we nabbed some sandwiches and headed to the nearest park so Sam could run around and Rhys could have a break from the carrier.
On the Ponte Vecchio
Lunch break
After lunch, we crossed back over the Arno and finally got a good view of the Ponte Vecchio. Sam was more interested in the rowers - fair enough.
Ponte Vecchio with rowers
We then happened upon the Piazza Santa Croce, and were nearly bowled over by three old ladies who we believe were drunk off their tree (they knocked over garbage can walking arm in arm). What a great place! Sam was happy to run around the Piazza (regular Piazza stops is a must when travelling with toddlers). Mom found another leather shop (or three).
Piazza Santa Croce
We ended a long, but fantastic first day with a dinner at a restaurant down the street from our place. Yummy, yummy pasta. Dinner with two kids under 3 is...speedy. One meltdown is manageable. Having them both melt down at the same time is rather challenging and we opted for a quick exit - despite reassurances that Italy is very kid friendly (stresses me out more than the other patrons, probably). I don't think Mom has ever eaten lobster that fast. Before going home, we headed to a gelato place that was recommended by a friend:
GROM. Deeeelicious (I had grapefruit) and clearly the gelato place to be as it was full of 20-somethings. Highly recommended (for the gelato, not the 20-somethings). Once home, we hit the sac, after a few hours of Rhys crying and farting (seems the carrier prevents the latter while in it).
Pasta - yum!
Day 2, Thursday, we headed to the
Palazzo Pitti. No lineups (yay for Florence in March and for uncharacteristically gorgeous weather). Well, if you have been to Versailles or any other similar palace you probably don't need to see the Palazzo Pitti (yay, more silk wallpaper that matches the drapes). The carpets are pretty impressive as well as the art collection, but neither Sam nor Rhys were happy so we didn't stay inside long, heading instead to the gardens so that Sam could run around. It was hot. Rhys peed on himself while I was changing him.
"LOOK - it's the Duomo!"
View of Florence from Boboli Garden
NOT Michelangelo's David (in more ways than one)
After Sam had burnt off some energy in the gardens, and Rhys had dried off in the sun (and been fed - creepy old italian man insisted on chatting with me while I was breastfeeding) we headed back across the Arno to a restaurant I had been told about by this same friend (Thanks Monika). Unfortunately, we arrived to late to be seated before they closed - smelled delicious - so we hit up the next available patio. Sam was entertained with some coloring and stickers, and by emptying the parmesan shaker all over the place. Clearly this was a tourist place...what self respecting Italian restaurant has pre-grated parmesan? we were desperate. It was decent...not divine, but nothing is terrible in Italy I'm sure.
So, day 2 didn't go quite as well as day 1, but the evening more than made up for it (so did the gelato at
Gelateria Vivoli). We wandered into Piazza Della Academia where there was a carousel (continuing on our carousel tour of Europe). Bought some tickets from the crusty lady in the booth and Sam and I went for a few spins.
European carousel # 8?
Also in the Piazza was a 3 man string band. Sam loves to dance, so I suggested he go give them some money and bust a move. Well, didn't he take me up on it! He pulled out all his moves (most of them come from watching Backyardigans) and attracted a crowd. The crowd went from us and 2 other people to 40 ish people cheering him on and taking videos. Three songs later we pulled Sam away, leaving the crowd wanting more (always good to go out on a high note). Wish I could post a video here (too big). We were laughing so hard we had tears in our eyes. Rhys, however, screamed (evening/gassy routine).
My boys
Day 3 was chill. We didn't try to go visit any palaces or galleries, but rather wandered about again. I did get into the
Chapelle de Medicis which was impressive (man those guys were rich and influential). and into the Duomo (finally, despite walking past it 4 times a day). Checked out the bronze doors of the
Baptistry, recognized as one of the earliest works of Renaissance art (Michelangelo likened them to the gates of paradise when he first saw them). Sam made friends with a local Italian girl who fed him ice cream (his self-confidence was over the roof after the dancing episode from the night before and is now even more bold with strangers).
Inside of the Duomo - as impressive as the outside
Baptistry doors
We then took a carriage ride through the old town, seeing some of the areas we hadn't explored on foot. When you ask sam about it now he talks about Victor's (the horse) bum (makes sense given Sam's vantage point) his red coat. Sam got to feed Victor afterwards...he was a bit timid (for once). He also doesn't like bugs very much.
We then headed back to the Piazza della Academia for one last carousel ride and another dance (and so that Mom could go to a store that she saw while on the carriage ride). Thinner crowds for Sam this time round (he was a bit disappointed I could tell) so he instead focussed his attention on trying to impress a little girl in the crowd. He made several passes, showing her his dance moves. She didn't bite.
We left bright and early the next day, this time driving along the coast. For some reason the ride home didn't seem as long, maybe because Sam's DVD player was charged. We made great time until we were stopped at the entrance to the Mont Blanc tunnel (for 40 minutes). There had been an accident inside - and we may have been caught in it if we hadn't pulled over to feed Rhys right before the entrance.
We were sad to leave Florence and I am determined to go back while we are in Geneva as it is so close and there is so much to see and eat. But next time I'll take the train.
