Trier, Germany

Welcome back SCR fans -- assuming there are any of you left out there. The publishers would like to apologize for the unacceptable delay in updating the blog but with Europe's mandated 12 weeks of summer vacation things got a bit away from us. En tout cas, we'd like to create the illusion that we've never left by bringing you up to speed on our adventures from the early summer before we launch into year 2 of our European adventure.

At the end of May we elected to manufacture a long weekend and get together with Sarah's old friend Sean and his wife Natalie who are currently living in Ghent, Belgium. We decided to split the distance and meet up in Trier, Germany. So we packed up the kids, loaded up the car, and fobbed the cats off on our neighbour then tackled the 7 hour drive to Germany. We did manage to take advantage of the opportunity to check another country off our list (150-odd to go?) by taking a lovely drive through Luxembourg. It was an enjoyable 15 minutes and they have lovely roads.

En route in Bresse, France - home of the world famous Bresse chickens

Trier is the oldest city in Germany, founded by the Romans around 30 BC as a military outpost on the river Mosel at the very edge of empire. It prospered during the Tetrarchy and was for a time a northern capital and residence of the Western Roman Emperor.

Not surprisingly, the city boasts a wealth of Roman ruins, including the Black Gate, the largest surviving Roman gate in the world. Built around 200 AD, it is one of four gates that once guarded the four sides of Roman Trier. It's conversion to a church in the middle ages (a fate that befell many impressive historical buildings in that era) likely contributed to its long term preservation, albeit with some important alterations. The gate formerly boasted matching four storey towers on either end but one was demolished to enable construction of the church's apse.

The Black Gate: Imposing

Trier's old city centre is a pleasing mix of historic cathedrals, medieval buildings and traditional German architecture dotted with crowded squares and open-air cafes. We enjoyed some delicious traditional meat-and-potato based German meals and, naturally, sampled some fine German ale.

Trier's old town, view from the Black Gate

We spent a day wandering around and checking out the sights - or whatever was left of a day after we got Sam and Rhys fed, packed up and ready to go. We told ourselves that we were simply introducing expecting parents Sean and Natalie to the reality of life with kids (and a hearty welcome on that front to their new son!). In any event, we did squeeze some action in.

Sam, continuing his tradition of being terrified by actors in old time soldier costumes

Inside the Black Gate

Trier old town

Sam exploring the flower market

Not a Roman Bath - Sam playing in the German equivalent to a splash pad

Sean and Nathalie with Rhys. Not much older than 3 months here but already a bruiser (Rhys, not Sean)

After a good walk around the old town and a bite to eat, we wandered over toward one of the former Roman baths. While Sean and Natalie checked out the history, we crashed in the park so Sarah could feed Rhys and Sam could nap for a bit. We then made our way back to our pad - another great apartment find by Apartment Locating PhD Sarah Pye - no more than 5 minutes drive from the Gate - and got ready for day 2.

Ready to Explore Cochem

Day 2 took us down the Mosel River to the beautiful medieval town of Cochem. Inhabited since early Roman times, Cochem received its town charter in the early 14th century and is today a very pleasant mix of timber-framed houses, market squares and impressive historical buildings. This is a significant wine producing region and vineyards carpet the steep hills overlooking the Mosel. We, however, saved our wine prospecting for a little later in the trip.

Cochem: Timber-frame and cobblestones

Sam demonstrating the apple does not fall far from the tree: Investigating a bar in Cochem

A Rather Poorly Advised Hiking Route: Rhys Comfortably Oblivious

Cochem Castle dominates the area, commanding the high point overlooking the town and enjoying unimpeded views up and down the river. While an impressive and imposing piece of architecture, the current castle is actually a mid-19th century reconstruction of the former imperial castle, itself a victim of the regular 17-19th century hostilities between France, Prussia and other regional powers. As a result, the building is more chateau than castle, with fortifications giving way to gilded halls and banquet rooms. The castle nevertheless boasts an impressive collection of armour, which Sam found both amusing and (naturally) frightening.

Cochem Castle Courtyard

Cochem Castle

Cochem Castle and Vineyard

A Tasty Reward: Sam says Cochem is #1

On Day 3, Sean and Natalie headed back to Belgium while we took a small(ish) detour deeper into Germany toward Mainz for a bit of wine hunting. We had read some excellent reviews of the Weingut Robert Weil in the small and lovely town of Kiedrich and a bit of searching, an outdated GPS, and an unexpected ferry crossing was all it took to find out for ourselves. The experience completely lived up to our expectations. For once we had the foresight to call ahead and the very friendly and knowledgeable staff were happy to open up the otherwise deserted estate for a private tasting. The region is noted for its riesling and many of the vintages on offer were truly excellent -- it was a challenge not to let our tastebuds run away with our wallets. We did, however, come away with a healthy sampling for our cellar.

Sam Plays On the Estate

Before hitting the open road for the drive back to Geneva we took a bit of time to explore Kiedrich and to enjoy a tasty lunch on a terrace overlooking the Rhine. The village deserved more time than we had to spare, unfortunately. We will certainly take the opportunity for a follow-up visit if our travels take us back to the area.

Kiedrich: floral

Sam: a convert to German cuisine

Eight hours, an ill-advised detour into France, a mind-bogglingly unnecessary traffic jam, and a solid 3 hour meltdown by Rhys later and we were back in Geneva - a little worse for wear but ready for our next adventure. Coming soon.